What led you to create these spirits?
Jean-Paul Knott: I have been working in the fashion industry for 20 years, but I have never dealt with perfumes before. L'Essence de Cerruti is my first fragrance. I was fortunate enough to participate in its creation, from the concept to the actual implementation. It was delicious. I immersed myself in the process with the greatest pleasure, and it was an amazing experience. In addition, it allowed me to work side by side with outstanding experts and discover the olfactory world of notes, chords and essences ...
Anthony Lee: I started creating the fragrance with great pleasure and great motivation. I had to go forward, not forgetting the legacy of the House of Cerruti, which has long been synonymous with masculinity, innovation, timeless elegance and modernity. Jean-Paul and I agreed that the smell of natural leather should be present in this fragrance. For me, the choice of leather was obvious, as it is one of the main materials in Cerruti fashion collections. In general, that made sense. I also knew that the process of creating a fragrance will allow us to work with the skin in a completely different way than when creating clothes, shoes or bags. And it was a strong motivating factor.
Did you imagine the image of a man for whom you created this fragrance?
Zh.P.K .: I tried to imagine a man for whom I came up with perfumes in his daily surroundings, from morning to evening. And, of course, at some moments, I imagined how he inflicts these perfumes on himself, leaving the soul ...
Is the process of creating perfumes different from working on a collection of fashionable clothes or shoes, for example?
Zh.P.K .: No, the work is done according to the same principle and the same pattern, including texture studies, multiple tests, and so on. She also reveals a variety of feelings and emotions ...
EL: I was lucky, and I was able to observe the work on fashion collections. Therefore, I know for sure that my approach to the use of materials ideally coincides with the approaches of fashion designers and designers involved in fashion lines. This understanding helped a lot in creating the fragrance.
How did you manage to maintain a harmonious relationship with the heritage of Cerruti fragrances?
EL: The challenge is always scary and at the same time attracts. The aromas of Cerruti have their own personality and recognition, which always coincides with one or another fashion collection of the House. I love the perfumes of Cerruti 1881, which, like L'Essence de Cerruti, were created from noble materials.
Zh.P.K .: It is very similar to fashion. I always keep in mind that I work for a wonderful fashion brand that has a vibrant personality and is highly respected throughout the world. One of the main questions was: "How can we convey this heritage today, in a modern incarnation and with our own characteristics?"
What factors were “out of the question” when creating L'Essence de Cerruti?
EL: I only wanted one thing - to find a new and modern way to use the smell of genuine leather. I did not want to make perfume just for the sake of perfume. Instead, we focused on the origins of perfume. We had to come up with an eternal fragrance that would convey emotions and leave a sensual, imperceptible mark on the skin.
Have you experimented with textures ...
J.P.C .: For 128 years, Cerruti House has been selecting the most elegant materials with the most sensual textures that caress the skin. I wanted to find the same luxurious materials presented in my fashion collection - cotton, cashmere, genuine leather - for these perfumes.
EL: I thought about the fluidity of a beautiful white shirt, and then about the very characteristic and noble aspects of genuine leather and cashmere, which are used to cover up the obvious masculinity, making it more sensual. These three materials are widely used in Cerruti fashion collections.
In the top notes of perfumes, to express the incredible freshness of a white shirt fluttering in the wind, I used cool notes of citrus and luxurious bergamot. I also “hid” in perfumes ingredients that convey the feeling of freshly washed laundry, such as spices, including cardamom and pepper, which give a feeling of cleanliness and contrast with citrus fruits. Then, we got to the core.
Genuine leather is the main component of a fragrance. And there are many ways to use it. I tried to take the classic raw material for “leather notes”, combining it with saffron and musk for a greater “sound”. Next are enveloping and soft notes of cashmere, created from amber and frankincense, sweet cedar and milk, adding to the aroma of sensuality.
Jean-Paul, did you enjoy working with Anthony Lee?
Zh.P.K .: We have developed real partnerships. We worked as one team, all of whose forces were directed to the implementation of the project. We both wanted to create an authentic classic, a luxurious object. And that was the obvious choice for both of us.
Jean-Paul, you also participated in the creation of the bottle ....
J.P.K .: Absolutely. I was very interested in working "outside and inside" to achieve true perfection. I wanted to apply the new weight, material, strength and design lines inherent in 1950-60. I wanted to achieve a classic and courageous form with clear details. The “shoulders” and bottle cap are engraved with a fish bone (or herringbone) ornament that recalls Cerruti's signature fabrics. The bottle itself is carved from thick glass, which emphasizes the style - at the same time elegant, classic and modern. We had to make perfume also a beautiful item.
What about an advertising campaign?
Zh.P.K .: Our meeting with the photographer Lahlan Bailey became the starting point. From the very beginning, he worked perfectly with light, background, and materials, just as we did. While working on this campaign, I again met with Jerome Feylliant-Dumas, and we made all decisions together. Therefore, this advertising campaign is a whole kaleidoscope of different characters and great moments, as well as emotions, which we all shared then.
What do you remember the most?
Zh.P.K .: It was a fantastic experience that set my mind on a new collection. I love to draw inspiration from life, from my own experience and the positive aspects from which the future is built. The fish bone ornament from the bottle cap, for example, smoothly migrated as a leitmotif to my next collection. Genuine leather, by the way, will also be presented in it ...
EL: The legacy of Cerruti House and its values were at the forefront of this project. That is why a dialogue with Jean-Paul was necessary to maintain the consistency of the project. This type of dialogue with the designer of a fashion brand is certainly unique and priceless. With perfumes, you can probably reach a larger audience than with fashion collections ...
Zh.P.K .: This is a stereotype that makes a designer think about the transition from a more exclusive world of fashion collections to the world of mass production and distribution of perfumes. Both directions are completely different, this is the beauty of working on them.
Are you ready to start creating the next fragrance?
Zh.P.K .: Yes, and immediately. It was an amazing experience!
