Interviewed Dariga Masenova THE NEW YORK DESIGNER DUET PROENZA SCHOULER IS KNOWN BY ITS PASSION FOR HIGH SKILL, CLEAR LINES AND SIMPLE BUT MODERN SILHOUETTES. WE MET WITH JACK MACCALLOU AND LAZARO HERNANDEZ AND ASKED THEM ABOUT WHERE THEY SCOPE THEIR IDEAS AND WHERE LOVE TO RUN FROM ANOTHER EYES.
Interviewed Dariga Masenova
Proenza Schouler in Russian sounds like "Proenza Scooler", where "p" is only at the tip of the tongue. This name is composed of the maiden names of mothers of brand founders Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez
Tell us about the very first collection. Who inspired you to collaborate on a thesis? We met before we started training at the Parsons School of Design. We did everything together, even homework. By graduation year, we asked for collaboration. Parsons never allowed anything like that, but we managed to convince the dean to make an exception. Our debut collection was completely redeemed by Barneys New York department store, and it was a kind of startup company.
Parsons recently published its first book on graduate designers, and your work is one of the most interesting in it. What was it like to study at the most prestigious university of design?
Parsons is a truly fantastic school! The courses were very difficult and sometimes just exhausting. However, they gave us the necessary knowledge base in order to successfully create. The professors introduced us to many of the key figures in the fashion business that have played a role in our careers.
Which of the other fashion designers inspires you?
There are several fashion designers whose work we admire - Azzedin Alaya, Miuccia Prada and Rei Kawakubo.
What would your individual collections look like if not for the Proenza Schouler duet?
Our creative thinking is so synchronous that at the moment it is even hard to imagine. Perhaps we would still do something together, but not in the fashion world. Maybe in art or interiors.
You are real masters of constructive techniques in design. What aesthetics do you have?
Some of our fulcrum goes deep into the couture era of the middle of the last century. Christian Dior, for example, had a huge impact on us, especially with regard to the development of our concept of silhouette. Silhouette is the foundation of the work. But first of all, it all depends on the mood of the collection. As a rule, in all that we do, there is a certain duality. Old and new, a combination of craftsmanship and technology, the imposition of different colors and materials - and all this multiplied by detail, but not in its finished form.
Tell us about the latest fall-winter collection. What ideas did you use this time to create it?
We went to the Venice Biennale for a retrospective exhibition of Ron Neagl, who gave us some advice. His technique of working with color and textures made a strong impression on us. We began to research completely different and unusual types of materials and experiment with textiles and coloristics. This collection was instinctively born.
You often create your own fabrics. What technologies did you use this time?
We have a wonderful team that works with the best textile mills and factories in Italy. This season we have developed several interesting textures: jacquard-based photo material, crepe with print effect and tweed booklet with prints. The photographic material was created using a carpet substrate, which is a tough industrial material, by the method of weaving its threads with jacquard. Then we combed through the resulting texture to get the desired textile surface. The whole process took about 6 months.
In 2008, you launched the first line of PS1 bags, which went against the trends in accessories of the time. Nevertheless, these bags have become an absolute bestseller. How did you decide to create such an anti-it accessory?
At that time, all the most popular bags were covered with monograms of fashion houses and clumsy, heavy hardware. We were waiting for the right moment to launch the bags, and it seemed to us that the PS1 would be a kind of antidote to what was happening - a classic, utilitarian bag that does not have any logos, decorations or “noisy” details. To some extent, she is anonymous.
Both of you are passionate travelers. Is a trip to Russia included in your plans?
We would love to visit Russia! After the end of the next show, we try to get out somewhere where we have never been before. We have just returned from Tanzania and are still impressed by the African landscapes.
By the way, as far as I know, you have a magnificent farm in Massachusetts.
Yes, this is our place of refuge while escaping from the noisy and boiling New York. We leave there for the weekend, and at the time of creating sketches for new collections - even for a few weeks. In this house it is easy for us to hear our thoughts, understand them and harmoniously develop new ideas. By the way, in our free time, we love gardening and farming. By the way, it's time to roll up your sleeves!
