Text: Dariga Masenova DESIGNER ROLAN MURE ARRIVED IN DUBAI TO PRESENT THE NEW SPRING / SUMMER 2014 COLLECTION AT THE ONE & ONLY THE PALM HOTEL CLOSED SHOW.
Mure, known throughout the world for his recognizable cut and drapery on dresses, once again proved that he understands and knows how to emphasize female forms. The son of a butcher from Lourdes said in an exclusive interview that he loves most about women, season trends and plans for the new year.
Your dresses are incredibly sensual ... Femininity is back in fashion?
Roland: I look and work on each dress, as if it were universal clothing. At the same time, I want women to feel free, to be able to enjoy themselves and delight others. I like female forms and it doesn’t matter if it is zero size or, for example, the 18th! I want to sing the feminine beauty in my dresses. When I saw Galaxy trying on women with completely different shapes, I realized that this dress is a kind of connecting link ...
That Galaxy dress was the turning point of your career. What is the secret to success?
Roland: Frankly, I did not expect such an effect ... It was a miracle! Thanks to Galaxy, I finally believed in myself, my philosophy, aesthetics ... And in the fact that I finally found my own style. The moment of enlightenment has come for me: I realized that I want to create collections for true women, and not for walking mannequins. It got to the point that I even began to enlarge the figures of the models participating in my shows. I admit honestly, I deliberately added volume to my hips and increased busts using fillers!
I also made a strong emphasis on the waistline. But the audience and the press reacted enthusiastically: approving reviews rained down on me literally from all sides! After all, the main thing - and I am absolutely sure of it - is respect for the woman, and not just a beautiful dress!
You do not like sketches. Are you comfortable working with the fabric?
Roland: As a rule, I do not draw. I immediately start working with the mannequin, trusting fabrics and scissors. I love draperies - this is my style. And therefore it is much easier for me to imagine the future model in real life, and not on paper. It’s easier to understand what exactly I want to emphasize when working with a female body. Form is always a priority! And I need to see the model from all sides, and not from one perspective.
Do you do design in the studio?
Roland: Yes, I love doing creativity alone. And I like to work without too much noise: I don’t even accept music as a background. I just do not need additional incentives. To experiment with fabrics is a pleasure in itself. I relax while doing design in the studio.
How do you see your woman?
Roland: First of all, free! Stylish clothes should always be presented in her wardrobe. They do not need to "disappear" after the change of fashionable seasons, on the contrary, they can move from season to season, harmoniously linking the past, present and future. This is the principle of the Moore style. And this is the credo of all the collections that I brought to Dubai today.
You often take up interesting projects. For example, do Fashion Night Outs with Conde Nast ...
Roland: I like the variety! Once I even supported the mass market - released patterns of one of my most popular Le Baba dresses, dedicated to the French stylist Catherine Baba. And a few years later I came to Moscow with these patterns.
It was September, but it was incredibly warm! We had a party and presented our patterns to all the guests of the evening so that they could order at the studio or sew Le Baba on their own. Of course, I understand well that not all young fashionistas can afford to buy a designer dress, but to have, for example, one of my outfits in your wardrobe is the dream of every stylish girl. I tried to help make this dream come true. And it seems I did it!
What do you usually put on important events?
Roland: Costumes of my own design, I also made men's collections not so long ago. By the way, in the future I again hope to return to creating collections for men under the brand name Roland Mouret!
What surprises do you have for your fans in 2014?
Roland: First of all, I plan to open a new boutique in New York. And also preparing a new collection of bags and shoes. Accessories is another very complex and unpredictable market. And I want to grow further, experiment, try my hand at different areas of design, better understand my clients and meet all the current needs of time and fashion!
And what do you recommend choosing from your spring collection?
Roland: I love color. For me, this is a real secret that does not cease to amaze again and again. Working with color is like therapy.
It seems to me that women also use color to cheer themselves up, to abstract from the flow of information and formalities. Color turns into armor. In the 1980s, black was a universal uniform. Today, color is also of great importance. For example, my spring collection is full of bright, deep and clear tones. At the same time, almost all multi-colored dresses are complemented by spectacular draperies. In every season I try to drape in a new way. Drapery is becoming the main trend and the main theme of the collection. It is obvious! All outfits have something in common with each other.
But it’s difficult to single out your favorite dress, because each of them is special! I have enough time for design: I manage to think through every detail and every element, so on my defile, as a rule, nothing gets out of the general row and does not violate the uniform style of the collection! This is like an exciting journey or a good book: you always need to get to the finale in order to understand the author’s intent. However, in the finale you usually ask yourself: “Is this really the end ?!” Amazing ...
So, it is color that becomes the main source of inspiration?
Roland: Yes, this season I'm attracted to the power of color. He, as a medicine, is warm and endless drive. That is what I wanted to convey. Of course, I could imagine everything in black, because I love black! But that would be too easy and terribly boring!
I’ll try to explain this using an example of a social network: everything works in the “immediately” and “now” mode, because tomorrow all the information will become irrelevant. I am trying to do the same with color. I want the woman, choosing a dress, not to hesitate for a long time, but simply pay attention to the color and immediately decide to have it in her wardrobe!
In what part of the world have you been eyeing colors?
Roland: First of all, in Jamaica. And on the hot streets of other exotic countries, among the many contrasts and games of chiaroscuro. Therefore, pink, yellow, green, black and white tones and shades are abundant. And for contrast, additional bright stripes were actively used. Color gives life to my spring-summer collection. It is of great importance. When you wear clothes of deep pure color, it instantly transforms the skin and becomes part of the image. And this brings to life the feeling of warmth and joy that is so necessary in our difficult time.
But a bright dress is a dangerous thing. Not every woman will decide on this!
Roland: I like women who are not afraid to be them. They take great pleasure in the very fact of their existence. Unfortunately, most often I meet people who are dissatisfied with themselves, who are simply afraid to be women.
And more often than not, it seems to them that “everything is wrong and wrong” in them ... I feel sorry for them. Indeed, at that very moment when a woman inhales deeply and finally begins to love herself more, and a real miracle happens ... I love to dress such women!
Perhaps, among your brave fans there are many Russian clients?
Roland: You were not mistaken! For example, in London I have a lot of Russian clients. The Russian buyer is one of the most powerful players in the modern world of fashion. I have always admired the skill of Russian women to quickly adopt the best. In the early 1990s, their image was in abundance: they used a lot of accessories and shine. But today everything has changed - a Russian woman has known and finally fell in love with the power of a simple cut!
Will you stay in Dubai for long? Can you relax here?
Roland: Alas! After the catwalk, I return to London.
I prepare six collections a year, create accessories, the wedding White Collection and Red Collection, which we launched several years ago on our website. But after analyzing the situation on the market at one time, I realized what areas need to be developed. And I strictly adhere to the course. When you have your own business, you try to think about everything at once. And there is practically no time for rest! But I would like to gain more experience and knowledge about the Middle East region and the market. After all, the more knowledge - the better! I’m such a person.
Immersion in history
The famous Galaxy dress by Roland Moore, was a must have in 2005 and the answer to the "whims" of Hollywood beauties Dita von Teese and Scarlett Johansson. As you know, girls with piquant shapes do not go draping, and Mure found an excellent solution - sharp shoulders, small sleeves, a cut-out, a tulip skirt. Everything in the spirit of Hollywood of the 1950s emphasizes the beautiful curves of the body. The secret of the dress in the interior: the powerflex stretch fabric, from which underwear was made in the 50s, creates a tight silhouette, resembling outfits with a corset. Daily Telegraph called Galaxy the most recognizable dress of the last decade. In stellar circles, Cameron Diaz, Keira Knightley, Demi Moore, Rachel Weiss, and Victoria Beckham have appreciated its benefits. One day, in an interview, Mure admitted that he was inspired by the era of glamor to create a dress: “Glamor is an optical illusion, but I like it when women know how to circle us around our fingers ...”
