THE NEW FRAGRANCE "CHOPARD OUD MALAKI" CREATED A FAMOUS PERFUMER DOMINIC ROPION. HIS NAME IN THE PERFUME INDUSTRY IS ALSO RESPECTED AS THE NAME OF TOM FORD IN FASHION.
When creating the masterpiece from Chopard, the composer first took upon himself the work of wood oud. In the countries of the Middle East, India and China, it is used as a material for incense smoking and the creation of aromatic oils. The presentation of new items took place in Dubai, where we were lucky to meet with the famous "nose".
What is he, Oud Malaki from Chopard?
This is a very specific perfume, such is definitely not found in Europe. It was invented for the Asian market, possesses all those unique ethereal properties that are valued in the East, but created by a European. I think this is a promising combination.
What notes can I put on a fragrance?
In the aroma, you can highlight the tones of tobacco, they add masculinity. Lavender levels the eastern flavor, makes it thinner and fresher. There are skin accents, a refreshing plume of grapefruit. All of them make it a little European, it is not a banal aroma of an oud tree, it is more complicated and easier at the same time. The word "masculinity" in the characterization of Chopard Oud Malaki is very important. Initially, the fragrance is dedicated to men, in Europe it is sold in the category of pour homme, but in Asia, we hope, it will be in demand also by women. According to our research, women here often prefer strict aromas.
Do you have any special ingredient that you add to each flavor, despite the initial task from the customer or trends?
Woody notes. This is probably why the oud tree intrigues me so much today. It seems to me that this is a new resource. Using a tree, you have the opportunity to do something natural, without any perfumes, but at the same time very original, with a special character.
How does the mod for perfumes work? What is the phenomenon?
There are two answers to this question. Option one is just a trend. Option two is magic. The main concern of the perfumer is to find the new in the familiar. The fashion for oud aromas in Europe began 5-10 years ago. It was that same innovation in the industry that opened up great distances. Perfume based on oud wood is the first thing that Europeans bring from the East, they find them magical, magnetic, praise the aphrodisiac properties. If we decompose the tones of fragrances that have long held on to the perfumery market, then I would say that each of them is very symmetrical. But the aromas, which, on the contrary, are full of all kinds of inspirations and shades, do not linger on the shelves for a long time, unfortunately.
But do oud fragrances also have an infinite number of formulas? How do you manage to constantly create something new?
Well, somehow they manage to endlessly create something new from the scent of a rose ... (laughs). This is a certain magic of perfumery. This, of course, is difficult, but this is the meaning of the work of the perfumer, his main professional skill.
How much time passes from the moment you come up with the first prototype until the customer approves it?
One year! But here everything is not so clear. In the first samples, we feel for the main motive of the smell. From the moment the motive is chosen, a year passes before we achieve the perfect result. In the work of the perfumer it is much more important to make the fragrance demanded by thousands of people. I would say that this is the cherished dream of any perfumer - to create a special original fragrance that would be loved and accepted by many, a fashion for which did not expire.
Would you use Chopard Oud Malaki at home in France?
Yes, of course ... But the fact is that I do not use perfume at all in everyday life. I’m like that fisherman who doesn’t eat fish, because she constantly surrounds him at work.
Do you have any hobbies?
Oh, do not think that perfumers rest in a special way, that they perceive reality only through smells. I love art, travel, music ...
