THEY DO NOT DEMONSTRATE THEIR NEW COLLECTIONS EVERY SEASON, DO NOT BROWSE ON THE CATCH, AND DO NOT HEAD FASHIONAL MAGAZINES. BUT ALL FACES OF THE WORLD FASHION (AND NOT ONLY) ARE STANDING TO THEM. AND FOR WHAT? TIME FOR ONE ONLY ONE MIGG, CAPTURED BY THE LENS, BUT SUCH THAT TRANSFERS THE WHOLE ESSENCE, IDEA, CHARACTER, LIFE. THERE ARE THE GRAY FASHION CARDINALS - MODERN PHOTOS.
Patrick Demarchelier
In the world of fashion filming, his name dazzles more than the flash of a camera. The best models and stars flock to this light, they only need to hear who will click the shutter. There is no fashion magazine with a loud logo that did not publish his work. Patrick himself is very modest and embarrassed when he is called a guru and a luminary. And the main secret of his success is labor - long and hard work. Education can be ignored - by the way, he never received any diploma in the field of fine arts. And why crust, if the best teacher is experience. First, the master received it in France (in his homeland), but he tasted the true fruits of fame, having moved to the USA in 1975. There he was noticed by Condé Nast, after which offers from GQ, Harper's Bazaar, and Vogue magazines poured. Today, Patrick is 73 years old, but he does not slow down creative momentum. Private shootings, magazine, advertising campaigns ... Cooperation with Louis Vuitton and Dior has become a good tradition, and Vera Wong has been a strong friendship ever since the designer worked as a senior fashion editor in American Vogue and met Demarchelier there. He regularly removes her advertising campaigns, including for the season "Autumn-Winter 2016/2017".
Annie Leibovitz
The best portrait painter of our time. A woman who has time to raise three daughters, to collaborate with celebrities of the first echelon and managed at the time in huge debt for real estate. Yes, and royal whims on her shoulder: it was Leibowitz who was entrusted this year to film Elizabeth II for her 90th birthday. Who would have thought that a girl from a large family of a US Air Force officer would reach such heights in art and would tell the head of the Windsor dynasty what pose is best to take in the frame? In general, her life is already full of amazing events. On December 8, 1980, Annie shot naked John Lennon kissing his wife, Yoko Ono, for the cover of Rolling Stone. And after a few hours the musician was gone. In 2005, the American Society of Magazine Publishers recognized this frame as the best cover for the last 40 years. By the way, the second place also went to the work of Annie for Vanity Fair. It captures the nude Demi Moore at the 7th month of pregnancy. Noise arose and discussions began to boil, the result of which was that the shooting of celebrities on demolitions ... became a trend that has remained so far.
The personal life of the photographer has long been closed. It never occurred to anyone that the friendship between her and Susan Sontag, a writer, screenwriter and director, and even 16 years older than her, could actually be something else. When Leibowitz gave birth to her first child in 2001, everyone began to guess, especially when they learned that Susan's son was the baby's father. It was his couple who chose as a biological donor. In 2004, Susan Sontag died of leukemia, which greatly affected the attitude of Leibovitz. The birth of twins born by a surrogate mother helped her to get out of a depressed state.
If you need to remove a star in an advertising campaign, this task is most often trusted by world fashion houses in Leibovitz. For Christian Dior, she shot Marion Cotillard, for Bulgari - Isabella Rossellini, for Louis Vuitton - Angelina Jolie, Natalia Vodianova, Sofia Coppola, Sean Connery. This season is not the first time Moncler has invited her to collaborate. The British singer and model Karel Elson and James Jagger, son of Mick Jagger, were involved as famous models.
Peter Lindberg
The German master made his contribution to reinforcing the very concept of “supermodel” - in the late 80s and early 90s, he was one of the few advertising photographers who shot primarily a woman, not clothes on her. He also shot the legendary cover of British Vogue 1990 with a great five: Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista and Tatyana Patitz. He is also called the guru of black and white photography - deep and at the same time direct. By the way, Lindbergh is a pseudonym. Peter's real name is Broadbek, he was born in Poland. To break into the field of fashion shootings, he, starting a career in Germany, moved to Paris in 1978. Comme des Garcons was one of the first brands to entrust him with shooting an advertising campaign. And after they were not counted. The photographer has already shot the Pirelli calendar twice, and this year such an important mission is assigned to him again. In the meantime, you can pay attention to one of the last works of the master - an advertising campaign for the New York City Ballet season "Fall-Winter 2016/2017" with the participation of soloists of the troupe. Naturally, in black and white colors - the virtuoso doesn’t change himself. Option for the evening: see the picture of 2015 directed by Gero von Böhm "Germany, your artist" about the life of the famous photographer.
Mert & marcus
Against the background of the rest of the mastodons of fashion photography, this creative duo looks completely youthful - it appeared in 1994 in London. Only closer to the 2000s, fashionable empires gave them their credit of trust, starting to invite them to cooperation. But the game was worth the candle: the tandem of the former stylist, Turkish emigrant Merth Alas and the photographer, a native of Wales, Marcus Piggott, did an excellent job and quickly began to climb the stairs of glory. In 2001, they changed foggy London to sunny and vibrant Ibiza, buying a villa there. They prefer not to discuss their romantic relationship, but work, please. Yes, they hit the mainstream of fashionable commercial photography. Yes, they do not disdain the post-processing of images and attract a separate team for this. And if the style of many photographers is easily recognizable, the manner of Mert & Marcus is different each time, but at the finish, unique frames are invariably obtained. For this they are loved. Mert is honest and pragmatic in his remarks: “We want to create. We want to show the world that we not only talk about bags and shoes. Yes, we are rebels and we don’t think about money. But this is industry. It is commerce plus culture and art. In one bag. " And in this bag not to conceal Givenchy and Giorgio Armani advertising campaigns of this season.
Stephen Maisel
To make his name in golden letters in fashion history, it is enough to voice only two facts. First: this person has been creating covers for every issue of Italian Vogue for 27 years since 1988. Second: The American has exclusively removed all of Prada's advertising campaigns since 2004. Since childhood, he showed a craving for the world of beautiful clothes - he loved to draw women and copied illustrations from magazines. Actually, he started with fashion art, having received an appropriate diploma. But he quickly realized: the chosen path, judging by the development of photo art, is less successful. Intuition did not disappoint, and today we know Maisel already as a classic in fashion photography. And often his pictures are quite provocative.
Mario Testino
The British photographer of Peruvian descent was looking for himself for a long time: he managed to study at five universities in Peru, the USA and Great Britain. And only the passion for photography was the last and successful point in the search for his true calling. Having moved to London in 1976, he bought on credit his first photo equipment. And, in fairness, it is worth saying that Mario walked for a long time to universal recognition. In this he was helped by Madonna and Gianni Versace. The singer was the first celebrity who asked in 1995 that it was Testino who shot her for the Versace advertising campaign. She had previously seen his work in fashion magazines. No sooner said than done! Gianni presented the resulting pictures to the chief editors of the gloss as "Madonna by Testino". The flywheel spun up: the name of Mario has since been on everyone’s lips, and in the advertising cases of companies, too. This season is Furla and Stuart Weitzman.
Stephen Klein
Accidents are not accidental, and Stephen's story is a confirmation of this. A stranger at a city fair handed him a cheap soap box, thanks to which he became interested in photography. The latter, in his understanding, should be dynamic, provocative and sexual. Outrageous is the main feature of this American pro. "I like it when people are uncomfortable because of my pictures and they leave their comfort zone - I love negative reactions," Stephen admitted in an interview. Not always comfortable for his models: he somehow captured the half-naked Caroline Trentini in a meat fridge. After that, the girl became a vegetarian. In 2010, Klein outraged the public peace of the music world, becoming the author of Lady Gaga's video for the song Alejandro. A talented person is talented in everything? In the case of Klein, yes. This fall, in his works, he again represents the style of Philipp Plein. Klein and Plein are not only consonant, but also completely agree in views on shocking, grunge and impudence
Bruce weber
Mastering the fashion universe, Bruce began as a model. He was attracted not by fame and shows, but by the opportunity to work with the best photographers. Such, for example, as Richard Avedon. Immersed in the process, the guy began to take pictures of himself. Not everything was smooth - he was not able to find his creative pulse right away. But when this happened, in 1982 the iconic shoot of Calvin Klein Underwear immediately appeared in his career. A billboard depicting a young muscular athlete in the pose of Adonis and only in underwear, with clearly erotic implications, stopped traffic in Times Square, but gave Weber a green light on the Olympus photo. Today, this shot is on the list of “10 Photos That Changed America.” Bruce actively writes books about his craft and makes films. The list of advertising campaigns he shot today is Louis Vuitton and Versace.
Terry Richardson
Scandalist and provocateur, but still a genius. Recently, a family man and father of two babies. Even allegations of harassment of minor models did not destroy his alliance with Alex Bolottow - she was the first to defend him. Although, looking at the photo style of her lover and his turbulent past, another darling could doubt him. Richardson likes to use provocative stories and angles, balancing on the verge of permissible. Moreover, he started in the mid-90s precisely with this role, and did not adapt to the trends and did not catch the wave. If necessary, the American is likened to a chameleon: with obviously serious characters and in commercial projects, his work looks quite decent. Examples of this are Barack Obama on the cover of the 2007 Vibe Magazine and Carla Bruni in the 2013 Bulgari ad campaign. In the Valentino Garavani photo series of the Fall-Winter 2016/2017 season, Richardson himself acted as a model. True, only his hands, easily recognizable by tattoos, fell into focus.
Jürgen Teller
"A photographer who does not know how to take photographs," you can hear this German. His shots are like spontaneous ones. They are distanced from glamor and do not embellish reality - even those made for the first world Fashion houses. Teller has a simple, clear, honest view of reality. But this is his style, which allowed critics to call him not a modern photographer, but a photo artist. Who knows what his life would have been if it had not been for him to dodge the army - that is why he moved to London in 1986. There he took photographs for magazines and, in principle, made a good living, until in 1991 he woke up famous after shooting Kurt Cobain. The second important star in his biography is Kate Moss. It is not clear who made whom more famous: he is her or her. But for a long time, the model preferred to be removed only from Teller. The same constancy is shown by Céline and Vivienne Westwood, inviting masters to collaborations (including this fall).
